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Leander's hidden treasure

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Tucked away in the corner of a shopping center on Crystal Falls Parkway in Leander, between Kingdom Kids and Walgreens, sits a hidden culinary gem. At first glance, Como's looks more like a dive bar than a quality Italian restaurant; the exterior is a little lackluster and there are televisions at every booth.

In fact, the only indications of the hidden caliber of the food are the rustic murals painted on the walls depicting the Italian countryside. Those who look past initial impressions will find a warm atmosphere and some of the best food in the area.

“If you want a good Italian meal, please come visit me,” said Chef Ralph Davis Jr. “You can come in two minutes before we close, I'm still gonna cook your food for you. It's not going to come out cold.”

All the food at Como's is cooked to order and never left under a heat lamp. Though Davis said this means patrons have to wait longer for their food, they get it hot and fresh.

Davis brought his family recipes, and the name of his family restaurant, from El Paso. His father was in the restaurant business for 40 years, and opened the first Como's, which he named after Italy's Lake Como.

Davis said once his parents passed on and the original restaurant was sold to distant family, he moved around for a while working for Peter Piper Pizza.

Then Scott Covey approached him with the idea of opening his own restaurant. After looking briefly into franchises, Davis told Covey about his experience in the family restaurant, and the Como's in Leander was born.

The disparity between the exterior and the mood of the restaurant comes from a change in management. Originally, the building was set up to have a sports bar environment, but problems with management and staffing led to a renovation of thought.

“Personally, I wanted it to be more of a family restaurant,” said manager/co-owner Paul Hoerig. “My vision is a small, intimate mom-and-pop type place where people know they can get some good food at a reasonable price.” Hoerig and his wife took over management of the restaurant about two weeks ago.

Hoerig's wife co-owned another business with Covey, and when Como's started to struggle due to poor service and management, Covey approached the couple to take over. They were reluctant to get into the restaurant business.

“It just seemed like way to much work,” said Hoerig. “It's a tough business. There are restaurants on every corner.”

Once they agreed to take over, they immediately started making changes. Service was improved by hiring older servers who can serve alcohol without having to pull Davis out of the kitchen. In order to create a more intimate atmosphere, the televisions were given a back seat. Hoerig said they will still host big games, but the televisions are usually turned off in the evenings.

Currently, Hoerig is also trying to re-work the menu. While the food will remain the same, the prices will soon change.

“My goal is to get the prices more in line with where they should be,” Hoerig said. “Some of the prices I think are a little high.”

Davis said he agrees with Hoerig's vision for the future of the restaurant as a family environment. He said he wants people to come in, relax and enjoy his food.

“If I can do 110 percent, I'll take it. I'm here to take care of my customers,” Davis said. “If you want Italian food, you come eat my food. My sauce is to die for.”

Como's is located at 901 Crystal Falls Parkway, Leander. For more information, call 260-8383 or visit www.comosrestaurant.com.

E-mail: amy@hillcountrynews.com

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